Ayyix1: Christian Siriano Fall 2011 Collection

Black is the new black.

Christian Siriano, it seems, has grown up.

How else to explain this (relatively) low-key collection; a departure from previous seasons' extremely exuberant efforts? Gone are the overt McQueen and Westwood references, as well as what the New York Times called his penchant for "capital G Glamour." In their place are looks and pieces that are recognizably Christian but with a thoughtfulness and subdued quality we've never seen in his work before.

But that doesn't mean the Siriano exuberance is banished completely. If anything, it's applied more effectively. It seems that if he must produce more toned-down looks, than he's likely to blow his wad (so to speak) on the skirts while keeping the tops relatively simple. Although in a few instances, he paired simple skirts with more structured tops. Even the color palette was more subdued; predominantly black, with little bits of a dusty pink and mossy green sprinkled throughout. He's playing around with sheer pieces a lot too, and while we're not crazy about the plain sarong-style sheer skirts, those exuberant black sheer skirts with the ruffles at the end were absolutely stunning on the runway.

He's always done a very good job of getting his dresses on the backs of starlets, but with the very wearable separates in this collection; the beautiful coats, especially; he's primed to get his clothes on the backs of everyday women as well.